| 28 July 2009
 www.fiestabuckhorn.com |
You live in a city that has good access to local produce. The wines are world class, the cheese is heavenly. A myriad of food and wine shows line up event calendars ready to show off this stuff. It’s no longer about whether the eats are good; we continue to pass those tests. Since its inception in 1997, the annual Fiesta Buckhorn held a fundraiser event by showcasing local food and wine. The difference to other food festivals? They do it better than anyone else does in the city…
Fiesta Buckhorn is a fund-raising event presented by the Buckhorn Community Centre, 30 minutes north of Peterborough. The BCC is a not-for-profit organization that is not financially supported by any level of government. Funds from events such as Fiesta Buckhorn contribute to the day-to-day operation of this facility. This year marked the 14th celebration of the Fiesta. The event doesn’t get a lot of media attention in the city – we couldn’t find it on any of the ‘comprehensive’ city calendars – which could be a good thing. It doesn’t suffer from over-crowdedness, and runs like a well oiled machine.
The festival was divided into two parts. “Taste of Fiesta,” on Friday, featured a few Ontario wineries and live jazz performances by Bridget and the Boys in the park. Dancing followed as the 42nd street band took the stage.
The main party took place on Saturday -- a fabulous fiesta of food, music, sunshine, wine. The Saturday morning drive to Buckhorn was both peaceful and picturesque as we curved along the Kawartha Lakes in cottage country. If I had more time, I would have stopped by Purvey’s Jeff and Kawartha dairy for their famously good ice cream. Or even Firehouse Gourmet for their garlic peri-peri marinades. In consolation, two out of three of those vendors were scheduled to be at the fiesta. The drive was just under 2 hours. A large parking lot was set up adjacent to the festival grounds with two types of transportation offered. By bus, or in style, by carriage.
An army of exhibitors accosted a (mostly) local crowd with eats and drinks, while various bands (Mike Graham Band, Felix and the Swing Kats) took center stage all afternoon. The grounds at the Buckhorn Community Centre were spacious; a large main hall was used throughout the day for free seminars while 11 small houses around the center grounds in an oval shape hosted the wineries and food establishments. The physical layout was conducive to a large crowd in many ways.
It set us on a cyclical journey to explore each building while giving us plenty of easy exits. No shoving, no pushing, no hording of vendors. Okay, hyperbole aside, I only remember one point during the entire day where the crowd got out of hand. It involved one particular vendor and their pulled pork sandwiches.
The festival avoided nearly every defect that city events are notorious for. Base tickets were a measly $12 with $1 tokens playing currency for food and drink. Foods ranged from 1 to 4 tokens while most wines were 1 or 2 tokens.
If there had to be a winner for the day the award would have gone to the Olde Stone Brewing Company for their crispy sweet potato frites and gooey Kansas city pulled pork sliders. We lined up over and over for this killer combo. Pulled pork, stringy and tender with hints of sweetness, crispy thin frites lathered in Tabasco butter. There were plenty of other vendors serving everything from steak sandwiches to locally made sauces and dips.
The event promised to be one of the largest local Ontario wine shows and it delivered. Around 35 wineries strutted their portfolio while engaging the crowd. Ideally a wine event promises some face time with the makers behind the product along with tastings; this event delivered.
I had the privilege of tasting 13th street winery’s new 2008 Cabernet Rose ($16). A blend of Cab Sauv and Cab Franc that bursts with sweetness and spices. It’s easily one of the best local Rosés I have tasted this year. Peter was also pouring the highly rated cherry intense 2007 Gamay Noir ($18) and the 2007 Riesling ($17) made entirely from grapes at their June vineyard on 5th street in Jordan. The uber small production Riesling (just over 300 cases) is an easy hit with luscious tropical fruit nose balanced with bright acidity. My favourite was the tiny batch almost sold out 2007 Chardonnay Musque ($17). An unoaked chard with vibrant fruit. Only 100 cases were produced.
Rosewood Estates may be relatively new but they have been quickly building a reputation for being Niagara’s first meadery, as well as producing some stellar wines like the Pinot and Chardonnay. They quickly filled glasses with their Mon Cherie ($18), a blend of Niagara sour cherry juice and Rosewood’s own honey, intense cherry flavours counterbalanced by cinnamon and honey. Rosewood recently launched Natalie Spytkowsky’s signature 2008 Riesling ($18) which is an easy citrus sipper that’s quickly becoming a favourite amongst tasters.
The Piece De Resistance – Rosewood’s 2006 Grand Reserve Ambrosia ($39). Dubbed “our response to Niagara’s Ice wine”, Rosewood’s top mead made from wildflower honey is a rollercoaster ride between said Icewine and Port. It’s rich, silky, sweet but not syrup-like and explodes like a garden show in your mouth. Food pairings are tossed into the air, with each suggestion causing many a swoons. Serve it with Foie Gras, Duck, Aged cheddars. A busty 10 month French oak aged 2006 Meritage ($18) swayed away from sweet with nutty and dark berry notes
The folks at Legends Estate were incredibly proud of their 2008 Malbec Rose ($15). Rightfully so, this clear cut winner is winning hearts all over (and awards soon) with its sweet and citrusy notes. We're noticing a trend with blockbuster Roses this year, yummy. Legends' LCBO collection was also available for tasting. This included the oaky 2007 Cabernet Franc ($12), the full-mouthed tannin heavy 2006 Merlot ($12.95), the floral 2006 Chardonnay ($11.95) and the superfluously tropical 2007 Gewurtzraminer ($12.95).
Fielding Estate’s booth was one of the most jovial at the festival. It could be a combination of wonderful personalities and the blockbuster wines. Nothing could have been more idyllic for the event than the Stainless steel fermented 2007 Pinot Gris ($18). A summer sipper with plenty of fruit on the nose and palate. Also served was the ever popular and intensely aromatic 2008 Riesling ($16). Every time I taste this wine I wish I had purchased a bottle at Fielding’s boutique wine shop in Beamsville months back. Gives me another reason to visit their gorgeous establishment.
The 2008 Cabernet Rose from Southbrook has seen a lot of mainstream success this year. Partly due to the fact that it is Canada’s first true biodynamic wine, pioneering new heights in respect for wine agriculture. Aside from process, the wine has also become a hit for its raspberry, zest and body. When talking about summer sippers, no list is complete without this. Since its launch on Earth day 2009, the 550/case product has been selling fast. Cost is $18.95 for what is truly an unforgettable wine.
First read about an impressive up and coming Sauvignon Blanc from Nyarai on Michael Pinkus’ site a few months ago. At Buckhorn I had the chance to taste it, and it was quite memorable. Nyarai is a new virtual low-volume winery under the command winemaker Steve Byfield, formerly of Southbrook and currently at Calamus. His signature Sauvignon (Steve loves making white wine) has already won him bronze at this years Ontario Wine Awards. The palate on the Blanc is wild with tropical fruits on the notes with a touch of grapefruit. Nyarai’s wines will be available for order online in a month or so. You’ll also start seeing it at city restaurants. Equally as great was his fruity 2007 Chardonnay ($16). Not bad at all for the newbie.
Marynissen’s booth packed a lot of punch with their tannin rich 2007 Solstice . A berry rich and meat friendly combination of Merlot, Syrah and Cab Sauv. producing only 100 cases. Marynissen’s 2007 Gewurztraminer ($14.80) was cool fermented for 4 weeks, bringing plenty of citrus and some floral.
Archibalds estate does a fantastic job of creating wine out of Ontario’s best. The products are only available at their orchard in Bowmanville, and are delicious. Particularly memorable is the Spiced Winter apple ($18.95). Apple crumble, that’s all I taste and smell.
More Rosés? Vineland poured a strawberry rich Gamay Rose ($15) while Calamus showed off their ripe 2007 half penny Rosé ($13.20), rightfully another contender for summer sipper at a bargain price. Me, I’m still a fan of their Calamus Red; the 2007 ($16.20) variety is light on tannins and pushing lots of fruit. Organic certified Frogpond poured two wines. A peppery 2007 Cabernet Franc ($17) that I picture with a good cut of steak and the fruity 2008 Organic Chambourcin ($14).
The fiesta wasn’t flawless, many noticed and complained about the ‘Cellared in Canada’ wines that sat at the Vincor table.
Caroline’s Cellar is a fairly new winery in the Niagara Peninsula (firs vintage, 2000). At the show the 2006 Momentum ($10) received the most attention. The wine is the recipient of the blended award from the Ontario Wine Awards. The 2007 Riesling ($11) is the kind of wine that will easily pair with any Asian dish.
An army of bottles sat at the Sandbank’s table. Wine writer Gord Stimell worked his way through the portfolio. I hope he tried the nearly sold out Dry Rosé ($12.95) (its luscious alright), mineral-rich Riesling ($14.95), the silky Waves ($14.95) and of course, the sublime Baco Noir ($14.95).
It’s hard to objective about one of Prince Edward County’s best. Rosehall Run wines are easy to fall in love with. Lynn poured the spicy Sullyswicker Red ($14), and the fresh new Sullyswicker Rosé White ($14). Both easy sippers.
Richard from By Chadsey’s Cairns loved the compliments he was receiving on his gorgeous family owned vineyard in PEC. He debuted his ‘Summer in a Bottle’, a 2008 Muscat ($21.80) layered with bouquets of citrus fruit and flowers. The taste is crispy with apple on the front. There was also the cherry rich 2008 Gamay Noir ($21)
The Festival ran from noon to 5pm and I can honestly say that I abused every minute until the exhibitors started to close shop. Event organizers in Toronto take notice. A successful food and wine event can be organized because we have all the necessary ingredients in our province, and it doesn't need to come at a hefty cost. I've been to my share of events and Fiesta Buckhorn easily takes the gold medal for organization, food and wine. Everything, tasted impeccable and it cost me a fraction of what I would normally pay at these types of events. If you want to be aware of these types of events, our events calendar is a good resource. The best is not always in the city, so we try to do our best to list events that take place around the city.
All the best!