Chardonnay is the wine world's most famous socialite. The always fashionable cosmopolitan wine is made from the world's most widely-planted premium grape.

Like a true global star, it's at home everywhere and able to adapt to local tastes. It does this seemlingly effortlessly all while staying true to the initial qualities that made [...]]]>

Chardonnay is the wine world's most famous socialite. The always fashionable cosmopolitan wine is made from the world's most widely-planted premium grape.

Like a true global star, it's at home everywhere and able to adapt to local tastes. It does this seemlingly effortlessly all while staying true to the initial qualities that made it the world's favourite white wine. Luckily for us, this Burgundian superstar has taking a liking to Southern Ontario. But it's not just a one-sided relationship. The feeling is mutual as local grape growers and winemakers have made it the top vinifera grape in terms of production. Both have been able to harness that mutual attraction allowing Chardonnay to once again re-invent itself for modern wine drinkers in a style that's fruit-driven, refreshing and elegant with a clear sense of place.

In the last two years Ontario wineries, grape growers and winemakers have embraced Chardonnay's natural affinity for the land and have invited like-minded producers from around the world for an International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C). Part education, part epicurean adventure, but never anything less than 100% fun, i4C has quickly become a must attend event for local winelovers and anyone else from around the world who loves modern cool climate Chardonnay. This 3rd annual edition promises to be the biggest and most exciting one yet, so just like last year you can expect some extensive i4C preview coverage from us over the coming weeks. Although you'll need to wait until July for the i4C festivities to begin officially, i4C organisers are inviting wine lovers to start things early beginning today for International Chardonnay Day.

On the 23rd the i4C crew will be hosting a global virtual Chardonnay tasting via their Facebook page, their Twitter account using the hashtags #ChardDay or #i4c2013, and their Pinterest board. Throughout the day 60 winemakers and acclaimed chef and certified sommelier Vikram Vij (who will help craft the menu for i4C's signature event the Cool Chardonnay World Tour Tasting & Dinner), will be sharing stories and leading the conversation over social media. They and the entire i4C team are inviting you to participate by sharing photos, videos as well as your thoughts and stories on all things Chardonnay. If you're out and about in Ontario wine country today you can get hands on Chardonnnay Day expereince as many i4C wineries are pouring special Chardonnay flights and hosting tours—you'll find all the info. you need at end of the post. But even if you can't make it out to wine country on Thursday you won't miss out on all the fun as many are continuing their International Chardonnay Day celebrations straight through to the end of the weekend.

To help get you into the spirit of International Chardonnay Day and i4C 2013 we've compiled a list of some of our favourite i4C Chardonnays widely available in the city and throughout southern Ontario. We'll be on Twitter through out the day joining in on the #ChardDay conversation so please feel free to let us know what you think about all things Chardonnay. After all great Chardonnay really comes down to fantastic juice and conversation with the best of company.

Spotlight's International Chardonnay Day i4C Wine Picks

Ontario Picks

Tawse 2010 Quarry Road Chardonnay
Price: $34.95
Availability: LCBO Vintages 111989
The Quarry Road vineyard has quickly become one of winemaker Paul Pender's favourite sites to work with at Tawse. The wines tend to be elegant with a pronounced minerality from a limestone-rich bedrock. This vintage combines fragrant lemon, crisp apple, a touch of oak spice and sparky undercurrent of chalky minerality that really comes to the fore on the finish. The texture is lithe, elegant and wonderfully balanced allowing both the fruit and signature sense of place to shine.

2010 Bachelder Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay
Price: $44.95
Availability: LCBO Vintages 324103
Thomas Bachelder is a maestro when it comes to Chardonnay. This particular Chardonnay comes from a vineyard of old vines near Thirty Bench is one of his best. Pear, fresh Meyer lemon zest and floral white peach are joined by beautiful sweet cream and a touch of oak spice. What really sets this wine apart is the beautiful tension between its fulfilling red-wine-like texture and its fresh core of electric minerality. Just as in his inaugural vintage Bachelder continues to produce wines made in each of the cool climate regions he has lived and worked (Burgundy, Oregon and Niagara). So if you pick-up his 2010 Bourgogne and Oregon you could have a mini-preview of i4C's World Tasting by comparing and contrasting three different 2010 Chardonnays made by the same winemaker. Essentially the only major difference being the three is the different i4C regions the grapes were grown in—now that's terroir.

2011 Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay
Price: $21.95
Availability: LCBO Vintages 172338
With its Triomphe label, Southbrook prennially delivers one of Niagara's best value Chardonnays. Made from hand harvest and sorted estate fruit, which is farmed using certified organic and biodynamic practices, and then barrel fermented and aged, it has every feature you'd want from a premium Chardonnay. Yet, it does so without an ultra premium price tag. This vintage brings a beautiful combination of lemon, anjou pear, apricot, pineapple, sweet oak spice, vanilla and a touch of lily. There's a nice balance between the fruit, oak and cool climate acidity with enough ripeness and body to feel substainal, but never heavy.

2009 Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay
Price: $40.00
Availability: LCBO Vintages 56929
Le Clos Jordanne has a stellar reputation for producing some of the province's best Chardonnay. In fact, the winery surprised wine lovers around the world when its 2005 Claystone Terrace Chardonnay (a ringer the winery didn't even know was entered in the tasting) took the Judgement of Montreal besting some top Burgundy and California Chardonnays. At a recent tasting the 2009 version of this same Chardonnay really stood out. Like a tai chi master, it possesses a brilliant balance between grace and power. Its softer side shows notes of acacia flower, white peach and a touch of hazelnut. While its other side brings the quiet power of zesty gin-and-tonic, crushed limestone and Meyer lemon. Tying both sides together harmoniously is just the right touch of fresh cream. With a beautiful length and a refreshing brightness this is a wonderful example of a modern new world cool climate Chardonnay with a touch of restrained old world elegance.

2011 O'Leary Unoaked Chardonnay
Price: $14.95
Availability: LCBO 307751
I find most unoaked Chardonnay to suffer from donut syndrome. They're nice idea at first, but ultimately they have a big hole yet still manage to feel heavier than they should. With this wine Vineland Estates winemaker Brian Schmidt is able to coax some of fleshy red-wine-like texture that usually comes from barrel fermentation, while still producing shades of a lighter more Riesling-like crispness you can get in the best unoaked Chardonnays. He does it by picking on acidity and giving it a just enough contact on the lees (spent yeast cells). The result is a wonderfully balanced Chardonnay with a texture not unlike a freshly-shaken Margarita with a refreshing citrus zing playing perfect foil to a light, frothy creaminess. The palate brings flavours of melon, white peach and Asian pear before ending on crisp lemongrass note and a touch of minerality.

International Picks

Louis Jadot Bourgogne
Price: $17.95
Availability: LCBO 933077
Maison Louis Jadot is one of the largest Burgundy producers. The wine merchant has a storied history going back to 1859 and has acquired some top vienayard sites. However, it has built its business mainly by establishing long-term relationship with quality-focused wine growers paying top dollar for top-quaility grapes and communicating with those partners under the philosophy that great wine cnanot be made without first growing great grapes. Combine this with the 42 years of experience from Jacques Lardière their legendary technical director and oenologist, who retired from active winemaking duty earlier this year but will be on hand at i4C, and you have the recipe for some great Chardonnay. With note of lemon, crisp green apple, Asian pear, grapefruit, oak spice, subtle vanilla and kernel, this a great value-priced example of the layered and elegant cool climate wines that made white Burgundy the Chardonnay benchmark.

2009 Maycas del Limarí Reserva Especial Chardonnay
Price: $19.95
Availability: LCBO Vintages 162040
The northern Chilian region of Limarí is a great example of how i4C's is highlighting cool climate Chardonnay from non-tradional regions. Although it's on the edge of a desert, which you would normally assoicate with the hot and dry conditions of a warmer climate region, Limarí has some natural features that make it cool climate. Its proximiary to the cold Pacific ocean with its cooling breezes and fog, along with the long shadow of the Andes make this a region that is cool by altitude, microclimate and coastal influence. It's also blessed with some calicum-rich bedrock—a soil known to produce a savoury chalky mineral note in Chardonnay. Producer Vina Maycas del Limari, one of this year's i4C attendees, is a leading producer in the region. This 2009 Chardonnay delivers golden apple, tree-ripened pear, toasted filberts, warm cookie spices of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove, a pronounced smoky oak spice and touch of that savoury chalky minerality on the finish. With a warm finish and a fuller body this is definitely a wine for those that like a richer-textured Chardonnay with a touch of verve and elegance.

International Chardonnay Day Ontario Winery i4C Wine Events

Inniskillin
www.inniskillin.com
Date: Thursday, May 23
Fun, Food and Chardonnay
Fun
Meet and chat with Chef Lynn Crawford- Food Network Chef, owner of Ruby Watchco & Ruby Eats, Toronto; cookbook author; star of the hit show “Pitchin’ In”. Includes a book signing of her book Pitchin’ In- great recipes from the ultimate road trip, and more!

Food
With claws, curds, crustaceans and charcuterie on the menu, there’s something for everyone on Chardonnay Day! Join us on the Piazza and in the Founders Hall 11:30am – 8:30pm. $2.50 – $10 per item.
Inniskillin Market Grill and Smokehouse and Oyster Bar featuring hot, juicy burgers live from the grill with wine country condiments and Chardonnay smoked chicken. -a selection of seasonally inspired salads and Poutine with smoked cheese sauce. -East coast oysters with Chardonnay mignonette and wine inspired garnishes.
Tide & Vine Bar featuring half lobster tail, BBQ'd with Chardonnay butter; chilled and cracked lobster claw with lemon Aioli; melon gazpacho with cold water shrimp and sheep feta.
Niagara Specialty Foods featuring Porchetta and cheese & charcuterie by Mario Pingue.
Food Demos ($10.00 includes food sampling and a glass of Chardonnay.)
1:00 pm Jackson-Triggs Estate Chef Tim Mackiddie-Smoking Demo with Chardonnay-brined chicken
3:00 pm Chef Lynn Crawford- Cheesecake in a Jar with Chardonnay & Vanilla-Poached Cherries
5:00 pm Inniskillin Estate Chef David Penny-Oyster Demo with featuring Chardonnay-inspired accompaniments.
7:00 pm Chef Lynn Crawford-same delicious dish as 3:00 pm.

Chardonnay

Enjoy feature Chardonnay from Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs and Le Clos Jordanne at a special Chardonnay Wine Bar (wines available by the glass or sample). And while you sip, enjoy live music from 4:00 pm-8:30 pm on The Piazza at picnic tables and Muskoka chairs surrounded by vineyards.

Southbrook
www.southbrook.com
Date: Thursday, May 23
For the Love of Chardonnay
Join us on May 23rd and celebrate your LOVE of chardonnay in a unique one-day only vintage tasting of our entire Poetica Chardonnay portfolio. Starting with our 2003 Poetica Chardonnay, you will have an opportunity to sip these "age worthy" Chardonnays and truly understand why we are so passionate about this amazing cool-climate grape. For a special treat, reserve a spot in our 1:00pm winemaker-led private tasting to hear the stories of their creation from vine to glass. ** Spaces are limited ** Chardonnay Day Tasting experiences are complimentary. For reservations please call 1-888-581-1581 to reserve your spot at the private tasting.

Coyote’s Run
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Date: Thursday, May 23
4 Vintages of Cool

In celebration of International Chardonnay Day, Coyote’s Run is offering complimentary tastings of Chardonnays from the 2009 – 2012 vintages; comparative tastings of the 2009 and 2010 Black Paw Chardonnay as well as the 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay vs. a pre-release tasting of the 2012 vintage. And for a bit more celebration, enjoy a sample of CR’s Chardonnay Peach Sangria. Can’t make it to the winery? Enjoy free shipping on 4-packs of any Coyote’s Run Chardonnay

Lailey
www.laileyvineyard.com
Date:  Thursday, May 23
Go Vertical…
Join the team at Lailey in a complimentary vertical tasting of Chardonnay over five vintages from 2000 – 2011 paired with some Canadian cheeses. Winemaker Derek Barnett will also be releasing the much anticipated 2012 Chardonnay Unoaked on Chardonnay Day.

Peller
http://www.peller.com/
Date:  Thursday, May 23
Celebrate Chardonnay in the vineyard
Join us as we tour the Chardonnay vineyard and taste the amazing wines they yield. Special Chardonnay tours will be offered every hour starting at 11:30am. In the award-winning dining room at Peller Estates Winery, enjoy a complimentary tasting of unreleased Signature series Chardonnay as a welcome wine.

Niagara College Teaching Winery
www.nctwinery.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday May 26th
“Wine down in the Vineyard” on Thursday 12-3pm

Join us in the vineyard on International Chardonnay day and raise a glass with us as we celebrate everything Chardonnay! Benchmark Restaurant at the Canadian Food & Wine Institute will be offering Grilled Salmon with Lemon Aioli & Grilled Chicken with Herb Aioli sliders for you to pair with a glass of wine from our Chardonnay bar. Tickets will be sold for $10.00 each at our Retail Store.

“Chardonnay ‘Boot’ Camp” on Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday at 1:00pm

Allow one of our team members to guide you through our Chardonnay vineyard to learn all things Chardonnay, from the grape growing process, to the history of our vines and terroir. Listen carefully for your knowledge will then be put to the test as you are lead through a blind wine tasting challenge and see if you can guess which glass is Chardonnay! The winners will take home a special gift. Tickets for this experience are $10.00. Limited spots available

Exciting Extras on Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday – 11:00am-5:00pm

Complimentary tastings on all Chardonnay Complimentary shipping on any purchase of Chardonnay (by the case only). Chardonnay wine bar set up in our Vineyard 12:00pm-3:00pm Winemakers Platters by Benchmark Restaurant available for purchase

Pondview
www.pondviewwinery.com
Date:  Thursday, May 23
Complimentary tasting of our 2011 Barrel Fermented Barrel Aged Chardonnay paired with kettle corn, and also our 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay paired with brie cheese.

Chateau des Charmes
www.chateaudescharmes.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday May 26
Many Faces of Chardonnay
Celebrate Chardonnay four ways at Chateau des Charmes. Start with Brut sparkling wine, Méthode Traditionnelle; then taste your way through the 2010 Chardonnay Musqué, Estate Bottled; 2010 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Estate Bottled and the 2009 Chardonnay, St. David’s Bench Vineyard. Special Chardonnay Day pricing of $5 (reg. $10), including a $5 credit that can be used towards same-day wine purchases.

Stratus
www.stratus.com
Date: Thursday, May 23
A “lees-on” on Chardonnay
Enjoy a flight of 2009 & 2010 Stratus Chardonnay plus the 2011 Tollgate Chardonnay in the Tasting Room. Then get an insider look on Chardonnay with a “Lesson on Lees” – sample wine on “lees”, see “lees” and have a discussion with the Stratus team on why “lees” matter.

13th Street
www.13thStreetWinery.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Saturday, May 25 11am – 4pm.
What do 2011 June's Chardonnay, 2010 Sandstone Reserve Chardonnay, 2008 Premier Cuvee and Cuvee 13 Rose all have in common? Chardonnay! Celebrate International Chardonnay Day and satisfy your Chardonnay cravings by ordering any combination of these fabulous wines on May 23 and receive complimentary shipping (Minimum 6 bottle order).

Sip and sample at 13th Street Winery!

Experience the food friendly nature of Chardonnay with 13th Street Winery and the 13th Bakery. Sample a flight of three unique Chardonnays with our Chardonnay inspired grilled pear, cheddar and roasted hazelnut flatbread ($19.95 ideal for two people to share). Even the 13th Bakery is celebrating International Chardonnay Day. Stop by and check out the selection of Chardonnay-friendly cheeses.

Henry of Pelham
www.henryofpelham.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday, May 26
The Henry of Pelham team will be offering a special complimentary flight of various vintages of Chardonnay in the new Speck Family Reserve Tasting Bar.

Hidden Bench
www.hiddenbench.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday, May 26
A Cool (Chardonnay) Challenge
Begin your Chardonnay experience with a quick sensory tutorial – walk through identifier pods of chardonnay notes to jump-start your senses. Then, blind taste a special flight of three Hidden Bench Chardonnays…if you correctly identify 2 or the 3 notes in each wine your flight is complimentary! ($10 value)

Flat Rock
www.flatrockcellars.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday, May 26
To celebrate Chardonnay Day Flat Rock Cellars is offering free Chardonnay tastings at the winery May 23-26 if people mention i4C. We will also have special offers on our back vintages of The Rusty Shed (limited time/quantity offer).

Cave Spring
www.cavespring.ca 
Date: Thursday, May 23
Cool at Cave Spring
To celebrate Chardonnay Day, Cave Spring will be re-launching the 2005 Chardonnay CSV – complimentary tasting and limited time opportunity for purchase in the wine shop. And, enjoy free tasting of any Chardonnay. And if that’s not enough… Purchase one case of Chardonnay CSV and one ticket for the Cool Chardonnay World Tour for $410.00 – that's a savings of $100.00!

Malivoire
www.malivoire.com
Date: Thursday, May 23 to Sunday, May 26
Visit Malivoire to enjoy a free sample tasting of our new 2011 Estate Chardonnay release. To celebrate we’re also offering complimentary shipping (within Ontario) until the end of May on all Chardonnay case purchases. Watch for us on Twitter and Facebook as we share our thoughts on Chardonnay—we hope to hear from you as you open your favourite bottles as well!

Tawse
www.tawsewinery.ca
Date: Thursday, May 23
Sip and share at Tawse!
Enjoy complimentary Chardonnay tastings, including exclusive back vintage Chardonnays, in the tasting room. The team at Tawse will be tweeting from the tasting bar all day—you could be in pictures!

Norman Hardie
www.normanhardie.com
Date: Thursday, May 23
Celebrate Terroir!
Norman Hardie presents Chardonnay flights celebrating the diverse terroir of Ontario. Flights are $6 and available starting at 10:00am.

For full Chardonnay Day details visit www.coolchardonnay.org

On the 28th of June, Langdon Hall will be continuing its celebration of summer's two greatest pastimes: cooking outside and eating outside.

The highly popular barbecue series returns this year at the lavish Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Ontario. Every year, the Friday Night Dinner Summer Barbeque Series matches favourite chefs, wine makers and [...]]]>

On the 28th of June, Langdon Hall will be continuing its celebration of summer's two greatest pastimes: cooking outside and eating outside.

The highly popular barbecue series returns this year at the lavish Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Ontario. Every year, the Friday Night Dinner Summer Barbeque Series matches favourite chefs, wine makers and culinary personalities with the best ingredients of the season. To name a few Langdon Hall will be welcoming Noah Bernamoff, of Brooklyn's Mile End Deli; Tyler Shedden of Toronto’s Café Boulud, Jeremy Charles of St. John’s Raymonds, Quebec ingredient specialists Societé Original and food writers Bonnie Stern and Mitchell Davis.

In keeping with the spirit of seasonality, featured ingredients and menus will be determined days before each event. Each dinner promises to be fun, relaxed and informative –guests will get to know each chef, what they do, and how they do it.  

This year's lineup;

June 28 –Newfoundland Lobster Fest
Raymonds of  St. John’s with Chef Jeremy Charles and Sommelier Jeremy Bonia and Mill Street and Grand River Breweries.

July 5 – Local Rubies & Foreign Sparkles
Ruby Watchco of Toronto with Chef Lora Kirk and Jean Remy Champagne.

July 12 – Awards in Small Packages
Pastaga Restaurant of Montreal with Chef Martin Juneau and wines by Bernard Stramwasser – Le Sommelier Agency.

July 26 – Gastronomical Musical Feast
Café Boulud of Toronto with Chef Tyler Sheddan and Violinist Susanne Hou.

August 2 – Food Writers & Wine Makers in Residence
Bonnie Stern and Mitchell Davis with Trois Terroir Bachelder Wines Thomas and Mary Delaney-Bachelder      

August 9 – NYC Taste & Local Sips
Mile End Delicatessen of NYC with Noah & Rae Bernamoff, Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers and Mixologist Christina Kuypers.

August 16 – A New Spin on Local
Taco Farm of Waterloo with Chef Nick Benninger and winemaker of Norm Hardie Winery. 

August 30 – The Masters of Cheese & Comfort
Toronto’s Cheese Boutique, Master of Cheese Afrim Pristine and Rose and Sons with Chef Anthony Rose.

September 6 – A Modern Approach
Atelier of Ottawa with Chef Marc Lepine

September 13 – Setting Aside the Norms, A Unique Food Approach
Société-Original of Quebec with Alex Cruz and Cyril Gonzales.

BBQ Retreat package: BBQ dinner, accommodation, full country breakfast for two.  $600.00 plus tax
$69.00 BBQ Dinner, $58.00 Optional Beverage Package

Reservations are a must for these popular sold out events. 

Surrounded by 75 acres of expansive gardens and trails, Langdon Hall is not so much a dining venue as a vacation destination. Built in 1898 as the lavish summer home of Eugene Langdon Wilks, the hotel exudes charm and character, impeccably maintained in the grandeur that was de rigueur among the American upper class a century ago. Since Langdon Hall began its transformation into a hotel in 1987, the main house, cloisters and stable wing now offer a total of 52 luxurious guest suites, a full service spa and a collection of private dining rooms with wood burning fireplaces. Langdon Hall is a member of the respected Relais & Chateaux brand, Grand Chef Jonathan Gushue received their Grand Chef distinction in 2009.   www.langdonhall.ca.

In a city not exactly known for its desserts, 21-year-old pastry chef Farzam Fallah of Richmond Station may have the best dessert menu in town. 

Owners Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovon opened Richmond Station last fall and quickly gained a following in a cursed space that once hosted a sushi shop and [...]]]>

In a city not exactly known for its desserts, 21-year-old pastry chef Farzam Fallah of Richmond Station may have the best dessert menu in town. 

Owners Carl Heinrich and Ryan Donovon opened Richmond Station last fall and quickly gained a following in a cursed space that once hosted a sushi shop and a barbecue restaurant, amongst other failed incarnations. Unlike their previous collaborations, Richmond Station is more than just a temple for meat and offal— it offers a variety of vibrant dishes on its ever changing menu.

Heinrich hired Fallah to handle the pastry program. The young and talented a pastry chef has previously worked for some top talent in the city like Origin, Enoteca Sociale, C5, and Ruby WatchCo. Customers took to his monthly dessert menus which quickly became a hit for their sense of playfulness and display of global ingredients and influences. I recently had the chance to sit down with Fallah and chat about his philosophy in the kitchen.

Suresh Doss: What's your background?

Farzam Fallah: I was born in Iran, and my family left when I was around 8 years old. We lived in Turkey for six months and then moved to Toronto.

SD: You're only 21 years old. Have you always wanted to be a chef?

FF: Not at all. I had no idea what I wanted to be when I was younger. In high school I thought I was going to be an artist. I wanted to go to OCAD. Living in Tehran, I only ate food that my parents made—all very traditional recipes. It's really funny because four or five years ago I was kind of pulling away from Persian food. We were living in Turkey and we were having the same dishes, and I was getting tired of it. The first dish I made myself was tuna and onions, and it was exciting because it was something different and I made it myself. 

 I finished high school and one summer for fun I started working at a restaurant in Richmond Hill called Terra. I had an interest in food so I wanted to explore it. I liked it a lot so I stuck with it for a while. I worked at Terra for a year and then decided to take a year off to do something with art. It didn't work out. 

SD: What were you doing at Terra?

FF: Garde Manger [an entry level position focusing on salad and small plates]. I started doing some pastry work as I quickly got sick of garde manger duties. The pastry chef ended up leaving so the timing was right for me to step into those shoes. I then worked for the sister restaurant Sarpa for a bit as well. 

SD: What followed?

FF: I worked a brief stint with Luigi Encarnacion at C5. I took the pastry program at George Brown and during that time, I worked for Lynn Crawford for a bit as well. I did the pastries there for some time. It was kinda tough though because at Ruby Watchco they wouldn't give me the freedom I wanted for pastries, because of the kind of food that they were serving. I couldn't create these types of desserts. It was very much; cake, sauce, cream. Very simple stuff. I got really bored of it.  I went to work with Rocco Agostino at Pizzeria Libretto. Then spent some time at Table 17 and Origin in Liberty Village.

SD: That's quite the resume already. How did you meet Carl and Ryan?

FF: While I was working at Origin [Liberty Village] I found out about Richmond Station. I met Carl, Ryan, and Julia and chatted about coming on board. I came on board and they kind of just said `you know it's your show, you can do what you like', and gave me the freedom I wanted.

SD: What was the audition like?

FF: I find inspiration from everything around me. From reading books from Spanish chefs. Then there's the aspect of taking an ingredient and playing with it, which I really love. I have a Persian background so I draw from that as well. 

SD: Is it safe to say, every single dessert dish of yours has soms sort of Persian influence?

FF:  I would say so.  If you remember the date bar dish from the first menu when we opened Richmond Station, that was quite Persian. I think there's something in each dish, and I am putting more and more Persian elements as I create new dishes.

SD:  The shole zard on the menu right now is probably the most persian dessert you've made yet. It's ambitious in a good way because it introduces a whack of new flavours to the typical diner's palate. Something many diners south of Bloor don't often get to experience.

FF: Everyone that has had it has loved it. It's something new with new flavours. It's very Persian, it has saffron, it's nutty, fresh and sour and it has the rose crisp which is very fragrant. I put the shole zard on the menu because it's spring and it just felt right. Working with Alex Whyte in the kitchen helps because he comes from a Mexican background and we're constantly throwing ideas at each other. I'm intersted in learning from other cultures and other countries.

SD: I noticed that there's a sense of playfulness with your plating. It's very pretty, and vibrant, a while ago you served a deconstructed candy bar, you were trying to recreate something from memory that's the impression I got. 

FF: Every Friday, we do a chocolate bar. In the beginning we were doing this peanut butter mousse, based on ants on a log, with celery and drunk raisins. We like to play around with chocolate bars. Every Thusday, I'll go and buy a chocolate bar and look at the ingredients and then play around with them in the kitchen. We then feature the dessert for dinner.

Despite the cracker jack has been the biggest dessert hit thus far it isn't on the current menu. Fallah doesn't like putting the same desserts back on the menu month after month. He prefers to create a fresh new menu monthly as it drives his creativity and gives regular customers a surprise to look forward to on their next visit. Over the next few months he's excited to be creating some new desserts using summer ingredients like blueberries and corn. He isn't exactly sure where the kitchen experiments with those ingredients will lead, but based on his dessert menus thus far the final desserts promise to offer a range of harmonious textures, vibrant colours, and some creative twists on global flavours. In short the kind of creative and exciting dessert fit to conclude a great meal.

Richmond Station
1 Richmond Street West, Toronto
647.748.1444
http://richmondstation.ca/

Niagara-on-the-Lake winery Jackson-Triggs recently announced their 2013 amphitheatre line-up and it features some impressive Canadian talent. We want you to have a chance to be a part of the fun so we're giving away a pair of tickets to the sold out Sam Roberts show.

The popular amphitheatre series enters its 13th season, [...]]]>

Niagara-on-the-Lake winery Jackson-Triggs recently announced their 2013 amphitheatre line-up and it features some impressive Canadian talent. We want you to have a chance to be a part of the fun so we're giving away a pair of tickets to the sold out Sam Roberts show.

The popular amphitheatre series enters its 13th season, and has included memorable performances by Sam Roberts, Raine Maida, Jarvis Church, David Usher, Chantal Kreviazuk, and Steven Page. You can view this season's full line up in our previous post. This year, the winery will reach its 100th performance milestone when returning act Sam Roberts kicks things off on June 14th.

We're giving away a pair of tickets to the soldout concert, which promises to be a fantastic time given that Sam Roberts and his band know how to put on a show.

Interested in going to the show? Head over to our facebook page for your chance to win a pair of tickets.

Good luck!

The seven wineries of the Beamsville Bench are blending the perfect combination of wine, food and live entertainment for the fifth annual Graze the Bench.

While Graze the Bench is, at its heart, a celebration of the incredible wines produced on the fertile terroir of the Beamsville Bench area tucked up against the [...]]]>

The seven wineries of the Beamsville Bench are blending the perfect combination of wine, food and live entertainment for the fifth annual Graze the Bench.

While Graze the Bench is, at its heart, a celebration of the incredible wines produced on the fertile terroir of the Beamsville Bench area tucked up against the Niagara Escarpment, this year the wines will be getting some serious competition from the food for top billing.

“We have worked really hard to establish this event as a true celebration of local tastes,” says Heidi Fielding of Fielding Estate Winery. “It’s no secret that there are some fabulous wines produced on the Beamsville Bench, and they are made even better when paired with some chef-prepared dishes.”

The scenic views and live entertainment at all seven wineries is what makes Graze the Bench different from other wine events. At Fielding Estate Winery, an expansive lush lawn offers one of the best views in Niagara, and invites “Grazers” to recline and relax or to kick up their heels with Nashville artist Declan McGarry.  Local jazz favourite TiannaH will “jazz up” the crushpad at Rosewood Estate Winery, while Broken Cadence returns to rock the Coach House at Peninsula Ridge.

Food truck pioneers El gastrónomo vagabundo will serve up their spicy cuisine at the Organized Crime Winery, with the Cuban five-piece band Los Caballeros del Son adding to the festive mood. Thirty Bench Winemakers are hosting The Tide & Vine Oyster Co., who will serve up seafood dishes in addition to their freshly-shucked oysters. Oak-smoked brisket, wood-fired pizza and grilled pacific wild salmon are just some of the other dishes on the menu.

New releases and vintage favourites will be poured by the glass, including Hidden Bench’s 2012 Locust Lane Rosé – a perennial crowd favourite that is being kept behind the counter until June 1st when guests of Graze the Bench can be the first to try this 2012 vintage. Rosewood Estate Winery and Angels Gate Winery will both be pouring Semillon – a lesser-known aromatic white wine that is perfect for summer sipping. Peninsula Ridge will be pouring their highly acclaimed 2010 Arcanum – their benchmark blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah – one of many fantastic red wines.

Tickets for the event are only $25, and include access to all seven wineries and your first glass of wine and dish, and a commemorative crystal wine glass. Additional wine and food tokens are on sale at each venue.

Full menus and tickets are available at www.grazethebench.com.  Graze the Bench takes place Saturday, June 1 and Sunday, June 2 from 12:00 pm to 5:00 pm at seven wineries on the Beamsville Bench. 

Every well-known wine region has a signature grape or two. Napa Valley has built a world-renown reputation on its bold premium Cabernet Sauvignon.

Deep, inky Malbec has transformed Mendoza from a “where's that?” to a go-to region which over-delivers value for lovers of rich reds. Even a classic region like Burgundy earned [...]]]>

Every well-known wine region has a signature grape or two. Napa Valley has built a world-renown reputation on its bold premium Cabernet Sauvignon.

Deep, inky Malbec has transformed Mendoza from a “where's that?” to a go-to region which over-delivers value for lovers of rich reds. Even a classic region like Burgundy earned its storied reputation through a focus and continually setting the bar with its expressions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay. But what about Ontario?

In a relatively young region that grows a rainbow of grapes ranging from Aligoté to Zweigelt, focus isn't always front of mind. But when you talk to quality-focused local winemakers you can start to one with handful of contenders being championed to possible become Ontario's signature grape. While there may not be a consensus on if there should be just one and precisely what it or they should be, there is enough agreement to show an emerging focus. In fact, this focus is something we explored during last year's 30 Days of Local Wine. It's also something that the Ontario Wine Society invited us to weigh in on, as it gathered Ontario wineries and challenged them to pour their best so long as it was either: Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc or sparkling wine.

Fittingly held in grand style at Casa Loma, the tasting was dubbed Five Stars (in honour of the aforementioned four varieties and sparkling) and featured some 125 wines poured by 30 wineries in a walk-around format. That format is an ideal set-up for an event like this allowing attendees and winery staff to converse regarding what they enjoy about Ontario wine, their winemaking philosophy, which grapes perform particularly well in their corner of Ontario wine country. It's also something that aligns nicely with the Ontario Wine Society's ethos of building local wine culture.

One of the most fascinating aspects of a focused and themed tasting like this one, is being able to taste different expressions of the same grape. That leads to some insights on how the wines express a sense of collective regionality, while also showcasing individual expressions from particular vineyards.

At this tasting the grape that took me aback most often was Pinot Noir. Although even the oldest Niagara vines are on the cusp of their thirties (and arguably not yet old enough to show what they're truly capable of), they're starting to show signs of regional distinction. Most often tend to exhibit the strong side of this infamously capricious and delicate grape. That means dark red and black fruit, a richer fuller texture and even a deep, earthy aspect to them. It's a striking contrast to Prince Edward County where the vines are much younger (generally a decade or two) but are quickly showing a unique expression of their own. County Pinot Noirs tend to be more lithe in texture and driven by chalky minerality, higher acidity and bright, light red fruit.

There were two County Pinots that really stood out for me and both were from the 2011 vintage. It's one that combines some of freshness and depth of 2009 with a lighter take on the bold, lush fruit of 2010. In short, it has the potential to be an unheralded vintage similar to 2004 producing some Pinots with some gorgeous aromatics, layers, balance and freshness. The first Pinot that struck me was Keint-he's 2011 Portage—a blend of fruit from its three vineyards (Closson, Benway and Foxtail). It showed a beautiful combination of fragrant rose petals, sweet wild strawberry, cherry and stewed rhubarb before a pleasant spicy cinnamon finish. It's nicely balanced with some moderate tannin, a bright freshness (from the acidity), and a touch more texture on its velvety body than you get from many County Pinots. An early preview of a 2011 Lighthall Vineyard's Pinot Noir showed even more promise. Lighthall owner and winemaker Glenn Symonns has unofficially dubbed this one “Le Retour de Patrick” as his son, who had a hand in the 2009, was again able to crush the fruit. This Pinot showed the classic Ontario hallmarks of cranberry, sour cherry and rhubarb before ending with a spark of flinty County minerality. It touches on some of the earthy character and roasted beet of his 2009 Reserve Pinot, but they're much less pronounced. There's also more richness in its texture and less reliance on bold County acidity to provide its backbone. It's still very young, but the balance of the tannins, acidity and elegant texture are showing all the right signs.

The Pinot that really stood out was the 2010 Rare Vintage from Coyote's Run. Over the years Coyote's Run has experimented producing both Red Paw (made from fruit grown on the older, iron-rich clay loam) and Black Paw (the younger, more fertile, darker clay loam) bottlings of its estate Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Cabernet Francs. They've garnered recognition and a cult following for the Black Paw and Red Paw Pinot Noirs. But they've also produced a top-tier Rare Vintage Pinot Noir bottling when they get particularly exceptional fruit from a great vintage. Recently that has come from the youngest block of clone 828 Pinot (now just heading towards its ninth birthday) which was largely responsible for the exceptional 2009 Rare Vintage Pinot Noir. It also produced something very different, but equally pretty in 2010. The 2010 Rare Vintage is captivating in that it's equal parts powerful and delicate and seems to know just what side to reveal at the right time. On the powerful side there's bold dark, sweet bramble and pomegranate notes along with earthy and meaty undertones. On the delicate side there's sweet fragrant strawberry and a perfumed rose meets delicate pepper spice combination that shows particularly well on the nose and finish. Tying it all together is a vein of saline minerality that's carries the wine from start to finish. Despite being a very different vintage from 2009 it too possesses a beautifully silky texture and a nice balance between tannin and acidity.

Riesling is another strong perennial performer, particularly in Niagara and in the cooler vintages. But Riesling has an interesting quirk if you like dry whites. Locally it usually exhibits critus-meets stone fruit flavours and is made with brisk refreshing acidity that's balanced by stopping the fermentation and leaving a touch of the grape's natural residual sugar. Just like George Coloney's acting career, local Rielsing's off-dry, sweet-tart style is pleasant enough in its youth, but it really starts to get interesing after a few years of seasoning. There was one wine which showed some of this more seasoned side of Rielsing and it's the Riesling that caught my attention. I first tasted the 2008 Speck Family Reserve at a Rielsing tasting back in late 2011. It was a fine Riesling then, but it has really come into its own with an additional year and a half in bottle. Made from low-yield estate vines that are just shy of their thirty birthday and only in exceptional years (it has only been made in three prior vintages), this is Henry of Pelham's top expression of the grape. Currently this 2008 shows a gorgeous combination of lime cordial, lemon zest, white grapefruit and apricot. It's also hinting at what it might bring in the future with the slightest touches of wet wool, bergamot and white tea. But make no mistake this is still a youthful Riesling crafted around a core of crushed limestone minerality. Where this Riesling really shines is its balance between that minerality and its lively acidity and the dichotomy they play against the slightly vicious texture. By slightly viscous I don't mean rich, flabby or heavy. If a young Ontario Riesling typically feels like fresh drip coffee, this is more like espresso. The slight uptick in viscosity just lends a softer and richer texture that is much more satisfying in comparison. 

Chardonnay vies with Riesling as Ontario's top white grape. While there are champions of each, the numbers show that Chardonnay is the most widely planted vinifera and it performs very well in every one of the appellations. Although there were quite a few very nice Chardonnays, the one that shone the brightest was Bachelder Wines' 2010 Saunders Vineyard. Thomas Bachelder is a maestro when it comes to Chardonnay and he believes Ontario (particularly the bench area of Niagara) has all the tools to produce truly world class Chardonnay. He's also a disciple of barrel fermentation and long oak ageing which he believes not only enhances texture, but also eliminates some of the fruit's fat and richness revealing the vineyard's true sense of place. This particular Chardonnay comes from a vineyard of old vines near Thirty Bench in Beamsville and is one of his best to date. Pear, fresh Meyer lemon zest and floral white peach are joined by beautiful sweet cream and a touch of oak spice. But what really sets this wine apart is the gorgeous tension between its fulfilling red-wine like texture and its fresh core of electric minerality.

Sparkling wine production has really explode in Ontario over the past decade. There's good reason for it too. No other wine type embraces the crisp, refreshing character of cool climate winemaking quite like sparkling. The Ontario region that best exhibits cool climate qualities on its sleeve is Prince Edward County, which has a more moderate climate, calcium-rich soils and an affinity for growing crisp and distinct Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. One of the first County wineries to produce sparkling was Huff Estates and they've been making great ones ever since. The 2007 Cuvée Peter F. Huff is is no exception. Thanks to 36 months of lees (spent yeast cells) ageing, it's brimming with toasty yeasty brioche (a.k.a. autolytic) character. That's joined by crisp golden apple and zesty lemon thanks to the Chardonnay (65% of the cuvée) as well as dark berry from the Pinot Noir (35%) all before finishing on that flinty County minerality. It rounds things out with a fine mousse (a.k.a. tiny bubbles) and bright fresh acidity. All you have to do is add some good company and oysters and you have the makings of a very good time.

The last of the five stars, Cabernet Franc, is one with a lot of potential. It's a bit of a late ripener so it requires patience. Although its hardiness and vigour show a side that's eager to please, a little focus and TLC in the vineyard allow it to reach its full potential in the glass. The areas where its shining particularly bright tend to be flatter vineyards in Niagara with heavier clay soils where the yields stay low and the sunshine is plentiful. Two wineries that have such a combination are Southbrook and Tawse. The 2010 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc is made from the organic and biodynamically grown fruit on the estate vineyard in the warm Four Mile Creek sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake. It's a classically beautiful Niagara Cabernet Franc with a combination of ripe dark black raspberry, lush blackberry, tobacco and sweet spice. Even with all that beautiful fruit it's also manages to showcase the grape's softer side with a floral violet note, lively acidity and a more inviting balance than Cabernet Sauvignon. That's all while still providing the velvety texture and chewy tannins that Cabernet lovers embrace in the their reds. As good as the Triomphe was, the Cabernet Franc, and wine of the tasting, was the 2009 Tawse Van Bers. When I visited the Van Bers vineyard last year, winemaker Paul Pender told me that even as harvest was approaching in that cool and wet vintage the berries weren't too much bigger than the size of peas. That meant the ratio of skin to fruit was particularly high. The result is Cabernet Franc with a lot of depth and character. It's a Cabernet Franc of quiet intensity with gorgeous wild blueberry, seductive lilacs, blush red fresh raspberry, black currant and cherry. Underneath all that fruit is a touch of roasted herbs, showing the grape's inherent character, as well as some dark cocoa, vanilla and sweet baking spices on the finish. The racy freshness of the vintage shows itself on the finish and is balanced against some youthful and bold chewy tannins and a texture like terrycloth, soft but substantial. It's neither too heavy and rigid nor overly soft and shapeless.

Overall the Ontario Wine Society put on a fascinating tasting focused on Ontario's “five star” grapes. Hopefully this is the first of many informal comparative tastings as there's nothing like a compare and contrast to give you a good indication of how wine is evolving across the province overall and amongst the different corners of Ontario wine country.

Wines Tasted

2011 Keint-he's Portage Pinot Noir
Price: $ 25
Availability: Winery

2011 Lighthall “Le Retour de Patrick” Pinot Noir
Price: $25
Availability: Winery Late June 203

2010 Coyote's Run Rare Vintage Pinot Noir
Price: $ 49.95
Availability: Winery Summer 2013

2008 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Riesling
Price: $30
Availability: LCBO Vintages 643361

2010 Bachelder Wines Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay
Price: $44.95
Availability: LCBO Vintages 324103

2007 Huff Estates Cuvée Peter F. Huff Sparkling
Price: $ 39.95
Availability: Winery

2010 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc
Price: $ 23.95
Availability: Winery

2009 Tawse Van Bers Cabernet Franc
Price: $ 49.95
Availability: Winery

Looking for the best party in Toronto this Friday night? The 2nd Annual Right to Play Ball has all the right elements: internationally renowned DJs, an incredible venue, silent auction, upscale complementary bar and hors d’oeuvres, and an attendee list already full of Toronto’s glamouratti and Olympic athletes.

Most imporantly it’s all in [...]]]>

Looking for the best party in Toronto this Friday night? The 2nd Annual Right to Play Ball has all the right elements: internationally renowned DJs, an incredible venue, silent auction, upscale complementary bar and hors d’oeuvres, and an attendee list already full of Toronto’s glamouratti and Olympic athletes.

Most imporantly it’s all in celebration and support of Right To Play. This global organization uses the transformative power of play to educate and empower children facing adversity. Through playing sports and games, Right To Play helps one million children weekly in more than 20 countries to build essential life skills and better futures, while driving lasting social change. A very worthwhile way to spend your time and money this weekend.

Last year’s event was an incredible night, and an incredible event, raising $80,000 and generating enough buzz that Master Card Canada is onboard as a supporting partner. Returning this year as host is Glen Baxter, who has supported Right To Play for several years and is passionate about the organization. DJ Tony Okungbowa of the Ellen Degeneres Show and DJ jojoflores will be dropping beats and ensuring the dance for stays hot all night long.

Tickets are $175 and available here.

WHAT: 2nd Annual Right To Play Ball. An eventful evening of fundraising and celebrations in support of the carefree spirit
and goodwill of sport and play.
WHERE: SHANGRI-LA HOTEL
188 UNIVERSITY Avenue, TORONTO, ON

WHEN: FRIDAY, MAY 10 , 2013 9:00PM – 1:00AM
For more information go to: www.therighttoplayball.ca

What’s in a name? Well, I promise you….when it comes to the new treat on the block Raw Super Balls, I promise you, there’s a whole lot of zingy one-liners.

But all wink-wink nudge-nudging aside, there’s also plenty of goodness and satisfying flavour. Now I know the idea of raw vegan food [...]]]>

What’s in a name? Well, I promise you….when it comes to the new treat on the block Raw Super Balls, I promise you, there’s a whole lot of zingy one-liners.

But all wink-wink nudge-nudging aside, there’s also plenty of goodness and satisfying flavour. Now I know the idea of raw vegan food is a polarizing one. Whether you love it or loathe it, I suggest in this case you give it a chance.

At a glance, you might mistake one of these supersnacks for a certain spherical, mass produced doughnut confection. But that’s where the similarities end. Raw Super Balls are the creation of Toronto couple Jamie Holmes and Gus Zootis. Though always health conscious, the duo decided to become raw food vegans a few years ago to “kick it up a notch” and noticed an immediate difference in the way they felt. But that didn’t mean they wanted to live a treat-free existence. After searching for goodies that met their dietary needs and tasted good, they decided to create their own. The result was so good, and also earned enough approval by raw vegans and omnivores alike, that they decided to bring Raw Super Balls to the public.

I try to keep my refined carbohydrate intake as low as possible (despite the sweet-toothed monster that lives inside me) so I was really excited to try Raw Super Balls. According to Jamie “If it’s not good for you, it’s not in our product” This raw, vegan product is GMO free, gluten free, soy and dairy free, with no artificial ingredients whatsoever. The balls are available in three flavours, though you’ll find mejool dates, nuts, and seeds as the base ingredients of all three. The Buzz Ball is flavored with cacao and a hint of coffee, the Sizzle & Spice Ball, made with cacao and maca powder and a dash of cinnamon, and our very popular Lemon Zing Ball, with a zest of lemon, coconut and goji berries.

Raw Super Balls range from 260 – 290 calories each, if you count that kind of thing. For me, this makes a perfect snack, or on many days, combined with an almond or coconut milk latte, a great breakfast on the go. I brought them to work and stashed them in my gym bag as a post-workout snack. My personal favourite so far is the Buzz Ball, because I am a lifelong chocoholic and the cacao nibs totally satisfy that craving.

I also love the fact that this is a locally made product. I believe in the importance of supporting small businesses, especially ones based here in Toronto. So with that in mind, the next time you need a snack, it completely makes sense to have something that tastes good, is good for you, and is locally made?

Raw Super Balls are currently available for $28.00 for a box of nine at
www.rawsuperballs.com

Look for them at coffee shops and farmer’s markets in the Toronto area soon.

Ambitious. If the media preview of the latest iteration of Marben is any indication you can sum-up the restaurant's new approach with that one word.

Even from the start you got the impression that this wasn't going to be an ordinary preview dinner. In lieu of the typical electronic invite, attendees received [...]]]>

Ambitious. If the media preview of the latest iteration of Marben is any indication you can sum-up the restaurant's new approach with that one word.

Even from the start you got the impression that this wasn't going to be an ordinary preview dinner. In lieu of the typical electronic invite, attendees received a jar of beet hummus. Menus were only given out in the media kits after dinner because as chef Rob Bragagnolo explained, “I'm a big fan of the power of surprise.” Once all the plates and glass were cleared that "surprise" consistent of a whopping 18 courses cooked by chef Bragagnolo and his kitchen crew and presented over four hours to the 55 attendees by owner Simon Benstead's service team. It was is darn good indication of what guests can expect on the menu in this evolution of Marben—a place aspiring to push things culinarily. But even without the ambition and grand display a new Marben would be a place to watch closely.

Over the past six years Marben has evolved half as many times, always reflecting the changes in Toronto's dining scene. Essentially, it has been a harbinger of what's hot in the city. The first iteration, which took over Nectar back in 2007, was a restaurant-lounge catering to those who preferred to side their dancing and cocktails with a light meal. There was an in house DJ, a large onyx bar and a menu by chef Craig Alley that liberally pulled inspiration from all over the globe with dishes like ancho-spiced duck confit crispy tacos. Three years later North America was deep in an economic downturn and people were less in the mood for glitz and celebration. The concept was retooled to focus more on the food and become more of a restaurant.

The décor went from dark and sleek to warm and rustic with reclaimed wood and mason jar lamps. On the food side chef Carl Heinrich and butcher Ryan Donovan were hired and brought acclaim to Marben with a heart-on-it-sleeve love letter to all things local and a menu which celebrated where the food came from by naming dishes after the farmers who supplied the main ingredient(s). After winning Top Chef Canada, Heinrich and Donovan went on to open Richmond Station. Now the third variant of Marben is set to open May 9th . But for Benstead, who has owned it throughout, this time is more about home and comfort, with home being the key word.

The name Marben is after all an amalgamation of Benstead's parents Mary and Ben. With this evolution of Marben he wanted to evoke the comforting feeling he felt growing-up in his family's English home. He's tapped Bradley Denton for a half million dollar redesign, which sees the space tweaked to be more open and inviting with a new bar, coat check, seating and booths. The most apparent change to the space is the new fifty-seat bar downstairs. Benstead paid particular attention to this basement space, which is often the “red-headed stepchild” of any restaurant. He says customers will ultimately dictate what they want to use the space for, but with its half-circle leather booths, marble table tops and bar and exposed brick walls, you can easily picture Rat Pack worthy evenings hanging out over drinks and light eats with your friends.

But the most dramatic change of Marben 3.0 will be its menu. Benstead recruited childhood friend Bragagnolo back from Mallorca, Spain where he has spent the last decade running three successful restaurants with business partner and fellow chef Marc Fosh. The combination of a burgeoning food scene, family and being able to create something with Benstead was the right combination to lure Bragagnolo back home. Talking to Benstead you can sense the excitement he has for Bragagnolo's menu, which they're calling “modern Canadian”. In this case, that means Mediterranean-inspired food using local ingredients where appropriate and drawing from Bragagnolo's extensive Spanish experience and Italian heritage. The concept is on point with the recent Mediterranean wave the city has seen over past year from new restaurants Patria, Edulis, Carmen and Bar Isabel.

Where Marben seems to be separating itself from others is how it's delivering Mediterranean flavours. Throughout the preview you could see evidence that Bragagnolo isn't shy about using modern techniques. There was an immersion circulator (used for sous-vide cooking) visible at the kitchen pass, 'crumbs' made of dehydrated ingredients and even reverse spherification (a technique which uses sodium alginate to transform liquids into semi-solids with caviar-like textures). But if that wasn't enough to make the influence of a certain internationally renown Spanish restaurant clear, Bragagnolo made the connection explicit when he cited El Bulli as a homage for his mini air chiabatta with Serrano ham. But even with all those modernist skills on display, it's clear that Bragagnolo doesn't just use a technique because it's cool. Hearing him speak you quickly realise what excites him most about being chef is being able create new and memorable dining experiences. One of his favourite ways of doing that is taking familiar and classic flavours and presenting them in an unconventional way. That also happens to be a strength of modern molecular gastronomy.

Take for instance the classic Mediterranean starter of olives. Rather than serve a conventional bowl of warm marinated olives, Bragagnolo presents his olives as a “yolk”. To make them he takes the juice from de-pitted olives and applies the reverse spherification technique. The result is a dish with the unmistakable fruity, salty and earthy flavour of olives, but with a texture that's just like a well poached egg's creamy, runny yolk. The dichotomy between the what your senses are experiencing and your mind's expectations, based on previous experiences, is equal parts thrilling and disconcerting, but in a good way. Served alongside a beet tartare and topped with a touch of orange zest to brighten it all and you have a very memorable and unique way to present a familiar taste.

Aside from the stark spheres-on-spoons presentation of his olive yolk, Bragagnolo's style doesn't reflect the minimalist and avant-garde presentations full of ices, foams, dusts and spheres that people still associate with molecular gastronomy from the last decade. He seems much more interested in subtly incorporating any modernist techniques and uses them to provide a textural twist or something that's difficult, if not impossible, to achieve through conventional cooking. In his kitchen those modern techniques and elements are used to plate a dish that looks organic, often mimicking how an ingredient appears in nature.

One of the most striking and whimsical examples was the preview's baby carrot dish. Served in a tiny flower pot, topped with dukkah (a Middle Eastern spice and nut mixture which looks a bit like soil) and featuring prominent green tops sticking straight-up, it looked as if Bragagnolo had mistakenly served a plant destined for an in house garden at Marben. But after pulling out the carrot top and digging in with a spoon, you would be pleasantly surprised to find the sweet-tart combination of smooth baby carrot and preserved lemon cream. After another bite you would find the dukkah, (featuring sesame, pistachio and spices), provides a crunchy, earthy, toasty and nutty element, which contrasts the sweet and smooth carrot. It all adds-up to a dish that manages to capture the earthy-sweet balance of carrots, but in a much more memorable way than even the best side of roasted carrots or soup ever could.

Along similar lines was the roasted Ontario tomato and chèvre salad. This was an interesting and deconstructed riff on a classic tomato salad. The star ingredient appeared to be a roasted and then peeled tomato. It looked nice, but ordinary. Only after cutting the tomato would you find it was stuffed with herbed chèvre and finished with a tomato vine garnish. The surprises didn't end with the tomato either. It turns out the tomato was resting atop a bed of dehydrated black olives and bread crumbs, which resembled soil, but tasted much better. The more conventional aspect came courtesy of a mound of peppery baby arugula flanking the tomato's left and slice toasted bread on its right. While the delivery was unconventional, the dish provided all the elements you'd expect from a conventional tomato salad, with the salty-crunch of the dehydrated black olives and creamy, tangy chèvre being the most flavourful and compelling elements.

Not surprisingly seafood will feature prominently and be a strength of Marben's new menu. Spanish Cantabrian anchovies (considered amongst the world's best) were the star of the the colourful and salty 'Carta da Musica' canapé. Local seafood is just as prominent. The clean-saline flavour of Raspberry Point oysters and the delicate nutty flavour of rainbow trout were also the anchors of their respective dishes. But if you're trying to decide between seafood dishes the kitchen seems to have an affinity for shellfish. The crab dish with its sweet strings of crab, pink and orange segments of Mandarin and grapefruit, edible flower garnish and a serving bowl that Eero Aarnio would be fond of, was the prettiest dish of the evening. Still the seafood dish that shone the brightest was the razor clam. Presented on its shell with chorizo and dots of parsley-clam gel, the dish was novel way to bring the classic Mediterranean flavour combination of spicy cured pork, bright green parsley and sweet-salty clam.

During the preview the menu was divided-up into canapés (the 'Carta da Musica' and a refreshing fiddlehead gazpacho) snacks, plates and sweets—that should continue over to the opening menu. All of the aforementioned dishes from were from snack section, which based on the preview, is the core strength of the new Marben. Getting a group together and sharing a bunch of them would be the ideal way to first experience it. But for those who prefer a meal anchored by a more conventional main, Marben has its “plates.”.

The most dramatically presented one was the Canadian paella. It's also the dish that best represents Marben's new concept of modern Canadian with a Mediterranean flare. This dish features a crispy wild rice base that's topped with bright snap peas, red pepper, saffron-paprika aioli and almonds. Where it gets dramatic is with the crab, mussel and lobster suquet (a Catalan seafood soup/stew featuring saffron and almond), which is poured tableside. With its deep, sweet and concentrated seafood flavour I'd happily eat a large bowl of the suquet by itself. But once mixed with the wild rice and peas, which are bold flavours of their own, its purity gets a bit muddled. While Bragagnolo gets kudos for using toasted wild rice (one of the unique local ingredients from the Great Lakes), I'm not convinced it's superior to traditional short grain rice, which in a great paella produces individual and perfumed al dente grains with a much-loved crispy-caramelised bottom layer of rice that Valencians call socarrat. For those who crave a more traditional North American meat and potatoes profile in their main, there's the naturally raised beef tenderloin. The beef was wonderfully tender and served alongside local seasonal flavours of bright green asparagus and morels. The accompanying potato mille feuille with a thin crispy exterior and creamy buttery layers was the standout element on the plate. It also acts as a nice nod to regulars familiar with the pommes Kennedy of Marben's previous incarnation. Speaking of, regulars will also be thankful that the chef's table will continue. A reservation there scores guests a full view of all the action in the kitchen while putting themselves in Bragagnolo's hands for a $54 multi-colour tasting menu full of whimsy and surprise.

As you can imagine, a 18 course preview tasting doesn't feature a large section of the sweets. But in this case it did continue the playful tone Bragagnolo set early. It started with a very subtle basil cotton candy, which was more sweet than herbal. Then it finished with a lavender crema catalana which had a very understated sweetness and floral-herbal tone as well as a great textural contrast between its burnt sugar top and creamy interior. The beet-coloured sugar stencil on the side of the plate inspired by UK artist Dan Innes was a fittingly creative way to bring some bold colour to the plate.

One of the focuses Benstead has always strived for at Marben is good service. “It's about making people feel special,” he says when explaining his philosophy. Based on the preview that should continue to be a strength at Marben. Dan Gütter (previously of Momufuku and the Drake Hotel) had his team well informed and performing efficiently and with great warmth and care throughout evening. Gütter is also managing the beverage side of the new Marben. There will be an emphasis on cocktails featuring premium and local spirits and bitters (like Dillon's), as well as house-made bitters and infusions. On the wine side the focus will be on providing a mix of Ontario, Spanish and Italian wines to complement Bragagnolo's culinary background. The 2012 Tawse Echos Rosé with its bright watermelon and strawberry flavours and the 2011 Telmo Rodriguez 'Gaba do Xil' Mencia with its smooth black cherry, plum and subtle smoky and floral spice, were standouts from the preview.

It will be interesting to see how Bragagnolo, Benstead, Gütter and the entire team settle into things at the new Marben over the course of the summer when the bright sun-kissed flavours of Mediterranean cuisine really shine. How that unfolds will determine how Marben's new direction fits amongst the exisiting Mediterranean-inspired restaurants in the city and whether this marks the beginning of some further Mediterranean flare in Toronto's kitchens. But whatever the result, the one thing that's certain is that with great ambition and passion as its fuel, Marben won't soon be easily satisfied. And that alone makes it one to watch closely.

Marben
488 Wellington St. W,
416.979.1990
www.marbenrestaurant.com