Over the last four years, diners have seen a steady growth in access to locally made Ontario wines (Prince Edward County, Niagara, LENS regions) at their favourite restaurants. Not only has the local wine movement influenced the top-tier restaurants in the city, but it is now making its way on to unexpected wine lists.
At the end of last year's 30 Days of Ontario Wine program, I wrote this article, explaining, why I think the local wine movement continues to grow year after year. It may not be growing as fast as we (local wine fans, supporters, winemakers, grape growers, 'some' sommeliers) would like it to, but the pace is steady. The busiest, top-rated, avant-garde restaurants embraced local juice first, even if their cuisine had nothing to do with local. Then came the second wave and third wave. In my opinion, these are restaurants, new or old, that didn't need to put a local wine on the menu. Instead they chose to and added a few, and in some cases more than a few.
What's most obvious about the last 12 months is how far this has trickled down the dining pipe. Diners are seeing more Ontario wines by the glass, and more Ontario wines at unexpected places. Think chains, think uptown or GTA, think world cuisine.
So here's the first part of a list of unexpected restaurants where can drink local with your meal out.
PF Chang's, Shops at Don Mills
P.F. Chang's first Canadian location is right here in the GTA at the incredibly popular (and multiculturally diverse) Shops at Don Mills complex. Since opening in late July the Asian-themed restaurant chain has seen one-two hour waits for tables nearly every day of the week. P.F. Changs' menu is extensive, offering numerous meat/veg options, many of them available in gluten-free versions. The wine list skips around the world with the usual suspects. They aren't too sophisticated, but they are great food companions. Local Ontario wines make up for the lack of character on the list, and they all seem to be chosen for their ability to pair well with a variety of ingredients and spices.
P.F Chang's Shops at Don Mills. 416-510-8838
Local wines available:
- Peller Estates Trius Brut and Trius Riesling
- Malivoire Riesling and 'Lady Bug' Rose
- Jackson-Triggs Reserve Black Merlot
- Thirty Bench Merlot
Joey Eaton Centre
The two floor 10,000 sq. ft. restaurant from the west coast chain opened in July of 2011 to high praise from the public. The space is beautiful and open with plenty of industrial elements thrown in the mix. The menu will likely accommodate the pickiest eater in your group. My favourite part isn't the bar, or the menu, it's the mezzanine upstairs. Overlooking the ground floor, it's a quieter space (less TVs, less bar noise), with a circular bar and an enomatic wine dispensing machine. These (expensive) wine preservation systems have been popping up at restaurants in Toronto over the last three years, giving many establishments the flexibility of preserving pricier and more interesting wines available by the glass for longer, and therefore allowing for a better by the glass program. Not only is the service at the mezzanine bar better, but occasionally you come across a number of local wines by the glass.
Joey Eaton Centre. 1 Dundas Street West, Toronto. 647-352-5639
Local wines available:
- Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling
- Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
Kirei Sushi
This new sushi restaurant, in the St. Lawrence Market neighbourhood, is the latest incarnation of the 81 Church space, with a large dining room and a 'typically' extensive sushi menu. During a recent lunch, I was surprised to find three Ontario wines by the glass, and not your ususal suspects.
Kirei Sushi. 81 Church Street, Toronto. 416-214-9393
Local wines available:
- Kacaba Cabernet Syrah 2008
- Alvento Viognier 2008
- Pondview Riesling 2010
The Keg Mansion
If you haven't been to the Keg Mansion (at the former Euclid Hall space) then I urge you to put aside any preconceptions, and head to the mansion, skip the dinner reservation and head upstairs to the lounge. Most of the charming elements of the heritage building are still intact, and the lounge offers a chance to work through the wine list, which offers both wines by the glass, and bottle at great prices.
Mansion Keg. 515 Jarvis Street, Toronto. 416-964-6609
Local wines available:
- Inniskillin Cabernet Merlot and RIesling (by the glass)
- Henry of Pelham Baco Noir (by the glass)
- Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc (by the bottle, $35)
- Peller Estates Private Reserve Pinot Gris (by the bottle, $38)
- Cave Spring Cabernet Merlot (by the bottle, $34)
Tabule Middle Eastern Cuisine
This midtown restaurant is known for offering unpretentious, and delicious middle eastern cuisine at reasonable prices. The service has always been wonderful when I've eaten there (lunch and dinner), and the food has always exhibited care. What has surprised me (in a good way) is how I've been able to enjoy a fattush salad, kefta kabob, or some falafel, along with a glass or two of Ontario wine.
Tabule Middle Eastern Cuisine. 2009 Yonge Street, Toronto. 416-483-3747. www.tabule.ca
Local wines available:
- Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling
- Vineland Pinot Meunier Rosé
- Flat Rock Cellars Rusy Shed Chardonnay
- Malivoire Chardonnay
- Megalomaniac Son of a Bitch Pinot Noir
- Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noir 'Village'
What some industry experts think..
"Unequivocally yes, it is easier to sell local wines these days. Consumers are VERY interested in what Ontario has to offer and are more educated about the varietals that are successful here and what cool climate viticulture is all about. They are engaged and interested in discovering new wines and new wineries and are receptive to our vintage variations and the 'Ontario taste profile'. They understand intimately that we make wines of place and terroir.
This consumer (and to some degree media and sommelier driven) movement has made restaurants more interested in what Ontario has to offer them. Phrases like 'I have to have a couple local reds by the glass' are uttered more and more often. We as local wine producers are required on wine lists, rather than being superfluous. That trend is not going away. I believe it is because we have established our own 'style' that we will not only remain relevant, but become more relevant in our local hospitality scene. Canadian food and wine culture will grow together as our wineries become more established. Only now are we starting to understand what we do especially well. That said, when you have a basis for quality, you can push the boundaries for what you can do, thus keeping the wine scene interesting and vibrant. We are just getting started."
Jonathan Kuhling, Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery. www.peninsularidge.com
"I think we have finally reached a point where Ontario wines have become more respected throughout all restaurants and I think this is because people in these restaurants are now more educated about wine. They now realise that the Ontario wine industry can produce top-quality wines at competitive price points and deserve a place on all wine lists. I also think over the last 5 years the quality of Ontario wine has increased greatly and people in these restaurants are now proud to pour the great wines we are producing.
The most unexpected place you can find my wine is at Cork's wine bar in the two Longo's grocery stores. I think it is a great concept and it is amazing that they are supporting nothing but local beer and wines. I have been doing this [restaurant licensee sales] for six years now and I would have never expected a grocery store to have a wine bar located within it. I also never would have expected that many people like to drink before, during or after they do their shopping.
It is very relevant, people should be very proud of what we do here and it should not just be considered a fad. There is a lot of hard working, passionate people in the Ontario wine industry that work hard to make sure we remain relevant. Eventually I would like to see it not even be to considered a movement, but a well respected wine region.
I think we will continue to see more restaurants carry local wines. There are a lot of great people out on the roads bringing amazing Ontario wines to restaurants and the people we bring them to are very receptive. I think if we keep working to bring them quality wines there is no reason for them to not keep buying or expand the amount of Ontario wines they carry on their lists."
Adam D'intino, Fielding Estate Winery. www.fieldingwines.com
